LOVING ART PARTNERSHIPS

Loving Art readers ...

I am thrilled my little lovingart.net blog has so many readers! Please, if you're new to the blog, leave a comment. I'm getting lots of e-mails, too. We have readers in New York and Los Angeles and Florida and Colorado and many spots between! And I discovered some high school friends that I have not seen in decades just checked in. Love to each of you from Roma! Kären

The leather market ...

Oh, I cannot leave Florence without a mention of the leather market. Here, you see a typical purse that sells for hundreds less than in the USA. The booths are manned by young British and French sales women and its tempting to buy up everything in sight! We browse through, checking out purses in every style, shoes, belts, bags and the like. Arthur, the strict vegetarian asks: What about the poor cows?

Back in Florence ...

We're back in teeming Florence after two days in the countryside. We walked the City, with Arthur finding his old apartment on a small, crooked street. We also found a fountain designed by Renaissance architect, Guilio Parigi, whom Arturo "discovered" for his Ph.D. We stopped for espresso at the Uffizi coffee shop and I snapped this pix there. Note the fabulous detail. Meanwhile, at the Circolo Unione, our headquarters, the Marchese continues his gracious hospitality and we enjoy lunch with him before boarding a fast train back to Rome.

Fragrant wisteria...

Here in the Tuscan countryside, lavender wisteria hums with bees. The olive trees are like twisted sculptures. The farmers plan with the eye in mind, meticulously mapping and planting in perfect rows and harmonies so the hillsides look like paintings.

Farmhouse feast...

Nothing, nothing at home tastes as good as this! I can't figure it out. Maybe its the freshest, plumpest tomatoes harvested around the farm. Whatever it is, Anna, when not talking about art, produces dish after dish for us during our visit. Kudos to her for her great traditional cooking!

Italian hospitality ...

A bedroom in the farmhouse. Just an hour from Florence is the tiny hilltown of San Miniato where the Gucci family launched their leatherwork artistry over a century ago. Anna and Vincenzo's farmhouse perches high on a hill on the outskirts of town. It's a dizzying ride through those hills with Vincenzo skillfully navigating the curves like a race car driver!

The Tuscan stillness ...

The quiet in these hills is unlike any I've known. A stillness so deep and solid one can hear the wheat growing, the insects humming. Why do I think this is the way its supposed to be? Like fragments of a dream, these days linger as we return to the wild energy of the cities.

Da Vinci's view

From the farmhouse window: silvery, twisted olive trees, grape orchards, emerald wheat fields stretch forever. It’s one thing to see Italy’s great art; another to see the artists’ source of inspiration. Da Vinci’s depth of space—the tiny umbrella pines against the distant blue, well, there’s nothing like it in the world. I could look forever.

Anna and Vincenzo

Our hosts, Anna and Vincenzo, showing off pictures of the farmhouse before they restored it. The surrounding hills are breathtaking, the inspiration for so many of the artists we study over here.

In the Tuscan countryside

While in Florence, we took a trip within a trip and spent a weekend with art historian Ann Padua Rizzo and her husband, Vincenzo, at their country farmhouse. Anna conducts extensive research on Cosimo Rosselli. You can imagine how much she and Arthur chatted (in Italian). Anna and Vincenzo restored this beauty in the Tuscan hills outside of San Miniato, about an hour from Florence. What hospitality! While Anna produced delicious meals, Vincenzo acted as gracious host and chauffered us about. The welcome quiet soothed two travellers’ souls.

Energy solutions ...

Florentines are more skillful at navigating the tiny alleyways on their Vespas than the Romans. The middle class is doing okay here as so many give their kids an expensive scooter. Saw a woman the other day in spike heels (older than me) scarf fluttering behind her, speeding by on a bright red Vespa.

Florentine rooftops...

A sprawling view of Florence from the Marchese's family palazzo rooftop.

Cosimo Rosselli banner...

This post is for our friend, Buz Pitts, who will love it that his handiwork adorns a wall in an Italian palace! Nice surprise to find Buz’s Cosimo Rosselli banner and poster prominently displayed in the Marchese’s elegant library. The Marchese shows it off as he drums up support for the Italian version of the show. “If they can do it in Florida, they should do it in Florence!” he says.

Marchese Rosselli del Turco

What a gracious and lovely man! We visited his family palazzo and here we are on the terrace roof. It’s around the corner from Circolo Unione where he is President. Niccolo, a true historian, shared his archives of centuries-old handwritten fabulous antique text books (For example, inches-thick, magnificent catalogues of coats of arms, lists of Florentine cemetary markers, etc). He is proud to be Rosselli’s descendent, and showed us the family tree.

From the Uffizi windows...

Magnificent Florence from the Uffizi Galleries, the Arno River sparkles below. You may have read that the Uffizi lent their Leonardo di Vinci to Japan, but guess what took its place? None other than a Cosimo Rosselli panel! And a very distinguished one. After decades in the Uffizi's dusty storage, the Rosselli was brought out and cleaned til the colors shone. It felt like a treat just for us. I thought of snapping a picture, but the guards would have arrested me.

Our own Florentine terrace ...

Our lovely quarters ...

The red carpet (literally) thanks to our friend, the Marchese Rosselli del Turco. Our suite, a living room, formal dining room, large bedroom and 2 baths. Quite a contrast to our modest Roman flat! Best part: Breakfast served in our suite. The club offers two suites for traveling members. In the afternoons, a thousand bells ring in the churches below. The Rosselli exhibition in Italy continues to move forward; growing excitement over here.

Florence at last ...

Writing from the Circolo Unione Firenze society in Florence that, for all its antiquity, is wireless! Will post a photo of our quarters when I return to Rome. A dinner meeting last night on the Cosimo Rosselli project complete with ancient sterling, candlelight, and two white-gloved waiters in tails. The Marchese Rosselli del Turco, current president of the society, is a gracious host and even I (a woman) feel welcome in this masculine establishment.

A poet on Rome...

No man will ever be safe if he forgets you;
May I praise you still when the sun is dark.
To count up the glories of Rome is like counting
The stars in the sky.

From Rutilius Namatianus (400 A.D.)

Glorious Easter ...

Thousands of pilgrims crowd the city today. Impossible to get near St. Peter’s unless you sleep on the street! We watch Easter Mass on TV; a beautiful spectacle, especially the Pope blessing each nation in its own language. Each group cheers wildly and waves flags. Throughout Rome, a profusion of white lilies and sweet-smelling roses jam the churches. Gold everywhere. We’ve attended a total of five masses. (Should delight certain family members!). The music, incense, the sincerity of prayers, the light in the churches—there’s nothing like it. I used to be critical of all the grandeur; but I see the beauty nourishes the soul. It doesn’t matter what religion we are, does it? It’s the meditation and practice that matters.

By the Tiber...

A very happy American (with aching feet and puffy eyes) pauses by the rushing Tiber. Behind me, the bridge that connects us to Trastevere, a robust little community teeming with artists, street merchants, and highly independent souls. Demonstrations daily. Art fairs. Fabulous food. Every language imaginable creates a river of babble bouncing off the old walls.

Mimmo Jodice, eyes of Italy

Another door to De Mura opens through photographer Mimmo Jodice, here with Arturo, who is from Naples and probably knows every art historian in Italy! Mimmo is one of Italy's foremost photographers, very dapper, as you can see, in his black velvet jacket and gold scarf, the epitome of Italian elegance.

The new Richard Meirs museum...

Arthur standing in the rain before the Ara Pacis Auguste museum by architect Richard Meirs. You've read about this highly controversial year-old building erected among the ruins. A blend of glass and travertine around a magnificent Roman sacrificial altar. Italians hate it or love it! I'm ambivilant myself. The altar's relief work is some of the most beautiful ever created.

Blooms everywhere...

The light here is like no other. The flowers say it all.

The Pope's surgeon...

Back in Rome: This gentleman, Raffaello Cortesini, is the surgeon who saved Pope John Paul’s life when he was nearly assassinated in the 80s. He and his wife, Nicole, are now Columbia University professors. We met at lunch and fell into an unforgettable conversation. In an intense, emotional story, Raffaello described getting the urgent call from Italian security, rushing to the Vatican hospital, the seven tedious hours of surgery and the Pope’s grueling years-long recovery. The Pope (he described him as “incredibly strong”), nearly died several times. Raffaello grew close to John Paul during all of this; his eyes filled whenever he said his name. This doctor is one of the most spiritually advanced people I’ve ever met. He spoke of John Paul’s “aura,” unaware of his own. It is obvious Raffaello was transformed by this friendship. The couple travels the world on the medical lecture circuit (He doesn’t speak on his experience with the Pope. Considers it “confidential” or “personal.” We felt very honored he opened up to us about it.)

Smart cars ...

One of the wonderful little cars.

Here's Francesco!

Here in loud, noisy Naples, we discover Francesca’s name on the plaque outside Pio Monte della Misericordia, the large Catholic charity that he helped found. He was, we find, a wealthy man, a generous Neopolitan with a deep sense of service to the poor.

Maria Grazia, Angel of Naples...

Meet Maria Grazia Leonetti Rodino, the first woman governor of the Pio Monte della Misericordia in 400 years! The plaque we discovered bears her name along with Francesco de Mura’s! She is a noblewoman, the angel of Naples, and Arthur’s angel as well. She tells us the Charity owns 41 de Mura paintings, all in mint condition. In the 1700s, De Mura, one of the Charity’s founders, left 192 paintings to be sold for money for the poor. Forty-one remain. Maria Grazia dreams of creating a De Mura exhibition in Naples. Arthur and she hope for some sort of USA/Italian cultural exchange. More coming on this…

On the train to Napoli...

Rushing by: Every shade of lushest green: verdant, deep forest green, flat jade, emerald, rich chartreuse, speckled olive, dusty green, palest mint as far as the eye can see. Earth and leaves shimmer in the Easter light. Hard to imagine just three weeks ago an icy hailstorm greeted us.

Looking for de Muras ...

Comfortable train, rapid, serves hot espresso and juices. An hour’s ride. Arturo ponders maps as we sleuth for more De Mura paintings. We’re to visit the largest Catholic charity, the Pio Monte della Misericordia, to see how many De Muras they own. (The artist was one of the Charity’s major donors). A beautiful art museum sits atop the Charity’s offices in the heart of the city. On other floors people stream into free dental clinics and a daycare for the handicapped poor.

The flat's power center...

Here’s where it all happens. Quite a different experience (from a tour) to live and work here. It’s exhilarating and wonderful and slightly crazy. One must drop all “American” presumptions and go for it! Very little il tempo libero (leisure time)!

Let's go to a museum!

Time’s a'wasting! Here’s Arthur anxious to move on to the next museum! I think I had stopped admire a leather purse or something. No, no, no! We must find the next De Mura painting, he says! And we did! An absolute beauty in yellows and golds, The Angels and the Cross, in the Barberini Palace. We go to Naples tomorrow to see dozens of De Muras.

Our friend, Francesca's home...

Francesca Delcroix, easily Rome’s own Pearl Mesta and excellent art historian, lives in this splendid old building. She’s the elegant lady who hosted a dinner party for us the other night. We met her in Rome several years ago. Francesca’s flat is on the top floor here. One climbs a multitude of cold, old, dark steps up to her sunny place. Bright yellow slipcovers on sofas, old lovely rugs, walls of fine art, candles haphazardly stuck in old chandeliers. She hosts regular salons, cooking every dish herself with no help and loves to mix and match people. We’ll see her next week and I’ll ask permission to snap a photo.

Palm Sunday from our window...

Special post for Mariolina and Romano here. They know how the city streets fill with singing and spicy incense this week as clusters of pilgrims and worshippers gather for Easter Week. This processional of African Catholic pilgrims singing loudly, holding candles, snaked through the cobblestone street under our window Palm Sunday morning. People fill the churches all day long; each candle is lit so I have to wait for some to extinguish to light those for special intentions. We sat for hours yesterday in Sant'Andrea della Valle's where Puccini’s “Tosca” took place under the soaring gold ceilings. One does not have enough sets of eyes to see it all. One envies the Salvatores that they grew up surrounded by such riches.

At the Villa Borghese...

The Easter weather draws Italians of all sizes and shapes into the magnificent sunlit park around the Villa Borghese this day. The paintings and sculpture in the building behind me are among the finest in the world. A feast for art lovers!

The meticulous gardens...

Here, for master gardeners Marylou and Julie is a shot of the Borghese gardens that surround the Villa. How do they do it? Small triangular hedges enclose a matching amount of blossoms! Like 12 pink blossoms surrounded by 20 small purple flowers with six yellow roses all blooming at the same time in dozens of dark green triangles! It’s like this in so many spots. Must require near-hourly care, but the Italians put so much value on public beauty that its built right into the various budgets.

The Sacred and Profane

This post is dedicated to my friend, Lezlie, my niece, Charlotte, my sister, Moo and the other fashionatas in my life! Indeed, Roma is more than gorgeous Caravaggios! See here just a few of the delectables available in the more expensive shopping districts. I fear our budget does not permit; staring through glass must suffice.

Our snug living room...

View from our window...

Here is the view from our main window. Below, a river of humanity passes. This morning, everyone carried palm fronds in a Palm Sunday processional and incense filled the apartment. The singing drew me to the window as I fixed coffee. The flat's ceilings are very high, with the original heavy wood ceiling from the 1700s creating spaciousness in what could be a cramped space. To enter the apartment requires huge keys in enormous locks that open thick doors leading to other thick doors. One trudges up a set of very, very old stairs in a cold, narrow corridor. The doors clang and bang when you shut them and you pray you aren't locking yourself in.

Our little flat..

Here's the bedroom of our little flat in the Ghetto. The window has three sets of shutters, but alas, one cannot shut out the blast of human energy rising from the street below!

Arthur finds Cosimo!

Yesterday, a private tour of the Sistine Chapel with its director, Arnold Nesselrath, a shaggy sort of art historian who has worked at the Vatican for 25 years. If the Pope wants new pictures in his apartment, he calls Arnold! We made our way down the many corridors, stepped into the Sistine, and there was SR. COSIMO ROSSELLI high up on a wall peering down at us, handsome as ever! Three of his magnificent frescoes, two directly across from each other, shone in the low light. The director is sad that the public can't get it straight that Michelangelo did not paint the entire chapel. And, si si, Arthur was so happy he rose up like Adam, touching God's finger!

Miracle in Rome...

Unbelievable MIRACLE that we snuck into the penitential services with POPE BENEDICT in ST. PETER'S BASILICA with the best seats in the house. It was absolutely thrilling---I had to hold my heart inside with my hands. Mama and Granny watched from heaven. Bebo envious! Moo, too! We sat in the left transept (cross section) six rows back from the Priests, the Cardinals to our left, the Pope directly across. The crowd (thousands) roared Popa! Popa! at his arrival. They heard confessions in the aisles. The music, a full orchestra & choir, was literally like dying and being in heaven. The Magnificat sung like nothing I've ever heard. Tears poured out of our eyes, and when the Pope blessed us, I felt like a child and waved at him like an Italian! All politics left us, all prejudice, we were just caught up in a lifetime moment. Like I say, Arturo is being blessed for bringing Cosimo back to his rightful place!

Lighting candles

I'm lighting a candle for everyone in St. Peter's of the Chains. His leg irons are on view for worshippers to see. Please note, around my neck, I'm also wearing my prayer pouch with assorted names in it so God knows who to favor!

Jetlagged and happy in Roma

Rome feels like the center of the world, like a gravity spot pulling the world into it. Surrounded by ochre, peppered grays, soft brownish stone, alabasters, deep dusty rose colors. Stunning! Alitalia left our bags in Paris, the cell phone won't work, and the computer is fritzed and we can't send e-mails. The apartment is wonderful, much more spacious than I thought, internet cafe within steps away. Our grocery market is in the square with the Pantheon! We're blocks from the Tiber River, about a half hour by foot to the Vatican and the Spanish Steps. We live on the second floor of a Ghetto building, off a narrow cobblestone alleyway. Wonderful, tall windows, tiled floors, sort of 50s deco wooden design details. Very high ceilings with wooden rafters. (The camera is in a missing bag so I can't show you.) The Ghetto is sort of the "Village" of Rome, teeming with artists and young professionals and loud scooters buzzing about. It's just a dream location. I'm on rented minutes here, so I'm dashing this off quickly. Note to family & friends: the cell phone is coming as soon as we figure out how to make e-mails fly again! Love to all.

Here's the dashing Cosimo...

This is a self-portrait of the great but nearly forgotten COSIMO ROSSELLI who, I'm sure, awaits our arrival in Rome. I do believe he is pouring blessings on Arthur's head these days. Among them, a private tour of the Vatican Museums and I'll post about that. If you recall, the Vatican lent Arthur negatives of Sgr. Rosselli's work in the Sistine Chapel for the 2001 show in Florida. If you click on "Vatican Museums" on my sidebar here, you can get a quick, virtual tour of the Chapel. Not great for detail, but you can spot Sgr. Rosselli's contributions and zoom in for Michelangelo's ceiling. I'm writing this at the last second, with our bags piled by the door and forlorn kitties milling about.

Arrivederci!

Just over 24 hours away from boarding an Air France jet to the Eternal City. Short layover in Paris. Pre-trip chaos whirls on Bryan Avenue as Philip moves in and we move out. Just found out we'll get a private tour of the Sistine Chapel to peer at Sgr. Rosselli's side panel up close, in silence, without the crowds. Makes one's heart beat faster! I'll be posting about this ... tune in later.

Chasing Cosimo Rosselli

I mentioned our old friend COSIMO ROSSELLI, the great Renaissance painter, in an earlier post. This year marks the 500th anniversary of his death. We'll be visiting all of Cosimo's paintings, frescos and altarpieces throughout Italy. And we're staying across the street from his former residence when we make a side trip to Florence. (Don't forget Spring 2008 Cosimo show at the Uffizi---we want you there). Here's the catalogue cover from Cosimo Rosselli: Painter of the Sistine Chapel, the 2001 Cornell Museum show.

Just because she's beautiful

An earlier post on CHARLOTTE MOSS the uber-beauty who is also our niece (and just got a full scholarship to Rollins College---brag, brag) shows her thoughtful self. Here's another facet of her caught by photographer extraordinaire SUSAN SKOLFIELD. Charlotte lives in Boulder. One day, art-lover Charlotte will join her Aunt KK and Uncle Arturo in Italy! I'm posting this just because I love her

Rome awaits us...

Last minute chaos happening around here as we make preparations. Six weeks without my kitties! Great thanks to our friend, PHILIP BISHOP, for house/kitty sitting! I'm listening to my Italian tapes, folding my scarves (to look European), setting up e-mail stuff, packing, and whirling.

The Uffizi Gallery

.
You see here Florence's magnificent UFFIZI GALLERY where our old friend, COSIMO ROSSELLI will be honored in the Spring of 2008. The show (Arturo is one of curators) is spearheaded by Cosimo's descendent, MARCHESE NICCOLO ROSSELLI DEL TURCO. You recall the marchese's trip to Winter Park to visit his ancestor's show at the Cosimo Rosselli: Painter of the Sistine Chapel exhibition in 2001. It is this dear man, Niccolo, who generously offered his club in downtown Florence for us in April. The Uffizi Gallery is, hands down, the most beautiful museum, along with the Louvre, in all of Europe